Sisterlocks in Costa Rica

​My friend Kia returned from the states with her crew and spent several days in Limon doing some Sisterlocks training there.

Kia says "I was on a real mission to Costa Rica to answer the call of the Afrocarribean women. #S.O.S means Save Our Sisterlocks and that's exactly what I did. Sistahs around the world need assistance with keeping their natural hair. As a natural hair stylist I felt the need to help. It really made me feel like I am living my purpose."

Then they came to Grecia and particpated in our interview series @ La Terraza Guesthouse B&B.

But..they weren't done yet...Onward to the impromtu Re-Tie party at my house!!

Thanks to Kia, LaRetta & Linda 

helping to promote & expand Sisterlocks in Costa Rica!! 

We really need it!

Sisterlocks in Costa Rica from Devon on Vimeo.

It's a Beautiful Story - Our Life in Costa Rica Yr #3

Worth seeing!! - if you are going to be in Costa Rica in Aug 2019 - add this one to your calendar!!!

On Sunday, August 26, six of us travelled from Grecia to San Jose to attend the 2018 Limon Roots Awards, held at the National Theater.  We also met some fellow US attendees from Michigan. They visited Limon for 5 days with a group of 27 black youths. They were here to honor their hero Dr Quince Duncan (Dr. Quince Duncan is Costa Rica's most important living Afro-Caribbean literary figure)

The Limon Roots Awards - Is part of the month-long celebration of Afrodescendants in Costa Rica, the Limon Roots 2018 Awards festival is the brainchild of Ramiro Crawford.  Being honored this year was Dr Quince Duncan, who celebrated his 50th year of writing, and the Mighty Gabby, master calypsonian from Barbados. 

The show is mostly in Spanish and since ("yo solo hablo un poco de español") when the show was over I relied on my Costa Rica friend Natasha Gordon-Chipembere to help me put some of the loose ends together. However, even with my limited Spanish I was able to get the gist of the stories (NEXT YEAR I plan to be more proficient in my Spanish! promise!)

So, with the help of Natasha - here's an overview of the evening.

The Anansi Stories - Have you ever heard of the Anansi or Anancy stories? I had not. They are famous West African stories that have traveled through the middle passage with enslaved Africans to the new world.  

Quince Duncan rewrote several very famous folkloric stories about Anansi the spider.

The Spider

As a trickster, the main character often deceives and exploits his fellow creatures for his own benefit. 
"Tricksters will themselves be duped and humbled. And however selfish and cruel they are, their antics provoke affectionate laughter, while their quick wits and mystic power inspire awe."

The highlight of the evening was a play, NEGRA SOY, directed by Sharifa Crawford and Erick Rodriguez. This play was a profound, critical meditation, a reclaiming of Blackness but specific to the invisibility of black narratives in Costa Rica and the price of being inside of black skin as a woman of color. Seven women told the story of growing up being taunted because of their curly hair, chocolate skin and rounded noses; of being on the margins in Costa Rica, especially in San Jose, where blackness and womanhood were symbols of vulnerability. Sadly most people came to San Jose to continue in school but many felt the need to straighten their hair in that fragility - these women rose! They, as a collective of beauty, told how they finally came to claim all which once brought them shame - their sensuous curves, the curl of their hair, the sheer melody of their rich brown skin. The voice of Stephannie Davis White shaped the entire production with its power. 

I am telling you - the show was AWESOME!!!!

I created a video highlighting snippets from the show (excuse me as I had to video over the heads of the people in front of me LOL) but I hope you enjoy it!

And MUCHAS GRACIAS 👏👏again to Natasha for her help!! Love You!!!💋

It's a Beautiful Story from Devon on Vimeo.

Limón Costa Rica - Day One - Our Life in Costa Rica Yr #3

Here's a little bit of the backstory -- in case you are new to the blog, or just missed my previous post.

Originally there were about 12 of us who were going to the Caribbean Coast to attend the annual Calypso Music Festival in Cahuita. Unfortunately, that weekend, there was a TERRIBLE storm which closed the road and flooded the area. 

So, we rescheduled for the weekend of Aug 4th. 

And that brings me to today's story...

Lavanson and I have visited the Caribbean Coast four times and we have NEVER stopped in Limón longer than a few minutes on our way to Puerto Viejo.

I have to ask myself "why"?

Statue of Christopher Columbus who was the 1st European to set foot in Limón on his 4th and final voyage in 1502

One of the reasons is pretty obvious, Costa Rica tourism is directed to the Pacific Coast to locations such as Playa Jaco, the posh beach town of Manuel Antonio and points north in the ritzy areas of Guanacaste, such as Playa del Coco, the famous beach town of Tamarindo and the very popular tourist area of the Nicoya Peninsula, and there is very little press about the Caribbean Coast -- home of the Afro-Caribbean people (except maybe to warn people of the "dangers" there).

Limón has a rich history! 

.

On this beautiful day, we spent an afternoon in Limón. We walked along the ocean, drank coconut water  marveled at the beauty of the central park and had a very nice lunch at nearby Cafe Gecko.

There is a walking tour available for  Limón where you can learn more about the history - unfortunately the tour can only take 10 people and we had over 15 so we could not take it on this particular day, however on our next trip, it is Number 1 on our list!!!

The Caribbean has some of the most beautiful beaches in Costa Rica, EXCELLENT food and a laid-back Caribbean vibe! The Caribbean Sea shelters coral reefs and tropical fish and its sands are where four different species of turtle lay their eggs each year.

Be sure to check it out on your next visit to Costa Rica!

Oh and BTW - Puerto Limon is the largest and most important port in Central America for commercial use!

Below is a short recap of the day.

Day One - Welcome to Limon from Devon on Vimeo.

There's No Place Like the Caribbean! - Our Life in Costa Rica Yr #3

Hey guys

We finally made that long awaited trip to the Caribbean! Fifteen of us set out on the journey. La Terraza Guest House B&B did not disappoint as they sponsored a wonderful 3 day excursion. A good time was had by all!!

In the coming days I will share some of our experiences with you, along with photos, videos as well as information re this beautiful part of Costa Rica.

Stay Tuned!

I hope you will find it helpful.

<
The Journey Begins! from Devon on Vimeo.

A Conversation w/Dr Carmen Hutchinson Miller Pt3 - What about us?

Video Pt 3- Conclusion
How much do Afro-Costa Ricans really know about the struggle of African-Americans?

“We didn’t want anybody telling us anything about Africa, much less calling us Africans. In hating Africa and in hating the Africans, we ended up hating ourselves, without even realizing it. Because you can’t hate the roots of a tree and not hate the tree. You can’t hate your origin and not end up hating yourself. You can’t hate Africa and not hate yourself.”

-Malcolm X

Below Story Source  Why Our African Identity Matters By Dwayne Wong (Omowale)

One of the challenges that people of African descent continue to face from the days of slavery is the question of identity.

Many of us still struggle with what we perceive to be conflicting national and ethnic identities. This is especially true in America where our historical experiences create what W.E.B. Du Bois described as a “double consciousness.” African Americans are a people that were ripped from the African continent and most still know very little about their African roots, so many African Americans simply do not see themselves as Africans. Yet, centuries of discrimination and being treated as second-class citizens has also taught African Americans that they still are not fully American either. In fact, the history of African Americans up until the present has largely been a history of struggling to be accepted by America.

photo credit source 

 This was largely done by design. The slave masters stripped Africans of their names, their languages, their culture and customs, and of their history. Not only this, but Africa has always been depicted as a negative place filled with savages and cannibals. Generations of African people living in the Americas only knew of Africa as the “Dark Continent.” Pro-slavery propaganda insisted that it was actually a benefit for an African to be taken away from their African homeland and this was a view even some Africans came to accept. 

We are the only group of people that came to the Americas by force. 
We did not leave Africa in search of a better life or in search of the American Dream. If anything, we actually lost a better standard of living by being taken to America.When the plague was devastating Europe, civilizations such as Mali and Songhai were thriving in Africa. Today we still view Africa as a “Dark Continent” which is filled with misery, poverty, and starvation. 

Secondly, we have the richest and most diverse background of any other ethnic group in the Americas. When we look at our historical roots we can trace them to various kingdoms such as Songhai, Mali, Asante, Dahomey, Kongo, Benin, Oyo, Futa Jallon and Kuba. Most African people in the Americas have a basic understanding of slavery and what that entailed, but our history is much more complex than that.

Finally, the term African is a term that connects African Americans to a global community of people of African descent that are connected by a common history and a common experience. Whether you are Jamaican, Guyanese, Trinidadian, Ghanaian, Nigerian, or Kenyan you have felt the sting of British colonialism. Haitians, Martiniquans, Senegalese, and Guineans have all felt the sting of French colonialism. Brazilians, Angolans, and Mozambicans have all suffered through Portuguese colonialism. And just about every group of African people in the world has experienced American racism in one form or another. The experiences may differ, but all people of African descent have been victimized by racism and oppression in one form or another.
I think one of the reasons why so many African people living in the United States and the Caribbean do not like thinking of themselves as African is because of the collective ignorance that many of us still have about our African roots and why those roots are important.

When the education system is geared mostly towards European history and culture, and the media depictions of Africa are still largely negative and misinformed, it’s easy to understand why many people of African descent would look at their own ancestral roots negatively.

Read the entire article here

"What about us?" My conversation with Dr Miller below

A Conversation with Dr Carmen Hutchinson Miller Pt3 from Devon on Vimeo.

A Conversation With Dr Carmen Hutchinson Miller Pt2 - Our Life in Costa Rica Yr #2

Video #2
"America" is more than just the United States of America!!

It really bothers many Ticos (a lot) that many of us from the USA call ourselves "American" or say that we are from America. I've been traveling for many years and I actually never heard this complaint until I arrived in Costa Rica.  

After our conversation I wanted to research a little further on the subject of folks from the US referring to themselves as coming from "America." (Since most of the world agrees on a seven-continent view of the world, it is important to remember that we also distinguish a person from South America as South American and a person from North America as North American, more commonly than simply American.) 

Why we call ourselves Americans

and as you will read, it's not exactly all our fault! 😄

Here's some information that I found. 

As the world knocks out political incorrectness left and right, there needs to be something else to fill the void, it seems. This American moniker dispute has really picked up some momentum in the last decade. However, it is important to note that the definition of American has virtually remained the same in the English language for over two centuries now.  

_____________________

A·mer·i·can

əˈmerəkən/

adjective

1. 1. 

   
   

   relating to or characteristic of the United States or its inhabitants.

   
   

   "the election of a new American president"

noun

1. 1. 

   a native or citizen of the United States.

   • 
     
2. 2. 

   the English language as it is used in the United States; American English.

______________________________________________________________

video #2 here

A Conversation with Dr Carmen Hutchinson Miller Pt 2 from Devon on Vimeo.

In the English language, American came to refer specifically to the peoples of British America, and later narrowed down more to include just the newly-formed country of the United States of America – and note that this happened in the late 1700’s. The United Nations recognizes that the term American refers to the people of the United States.

The name of the country is United States of America. Simply put, there are not any other countries (that come to mind, at least) that have the word America within their official name as does the United States of America. There is much less fault to be found in the full name of the USA, but it is the demonym that draws ire in others. 

Thus, when demonyms (A demonym or gentilic is a word used for people or the inhabitants of a place. The name of a people's language is usually the same as this word, for example, the "English" (language or people). Some places may not have a word for the people that live there) it is usually from the most unique part of the full official name, such as Mexico (whose official name is United Mexican States) for example, or it is with the geographical component to their name, as in the case of South Africa or Central Africa. The unique part of the United States of America is America, so it became the root of the demonym; since there’s no other country with that word within its name.

As the term was not picked by citizens of the USA to begin with, but rather the USA’s mother country/national enemy at the time, Great Britain, so this should not be an example of American ignorance or arrogance. 
Source

Are YOU guilty of being an arrogant gringo?

Hopefully we all know by now to be careful not to come across as having an attitude of superiority. Even so, it still comes across from many of us from North American that we are better than our brothers and sisters in other parts of the world and that our ways and our customs are better than those of others. We really need to make a conscious effort to change this whenever we can. 

I also agree with Dr Miller that in international spaces, we should strive to be considerate in our language and keep in mind at all times that we are visitors in another country!!

INAMU in San Jose - Our Life in Costa Rica Yr #2

Objective:

difundir y analizar los avances y desafios del Foro Nacional de mujeres Afrodescendietentes a traves del dialogo entre sus integrantes y actores claves

Translation:

disseminate and analyze the progress and challenges of the National Forum of Afro-descendant women through dialogue among its members and key actors

Shirley and me with a couple of the ladies from Limon

We were very pleased to be invited to attend the INAMU Conference at the Holiday Inn in San Jose on Thursday. The conference was an all day event starting at 8:00am. We hired a driver and 6 of us from Grecia went to the conference. In rush hour traffic, the ride took 2 hrs.

The focus of this conference was on women of Afro-descent and the majority of the women who attended made the journey from Limon on the Caribbean Coast (about 4 hrs away). Also in attendance were Tracy Davidson-Celestine, Trinidad and Tobago Ambassador to Costa Rica and Alejandra Mora, Vice Ministra of INAMU (Instituto Nacional de las Mujeres - National Institute of Women)

The conference was conducted almost entirely in Spanish. They provided us with several translators to sit amongst us folks from the US and help us to understand what was being said.

Although I was not able to understand all of what was being said in Spanish, I am getting pretty good at reading, so was pretty proud of myself anyway!!

This is only part of the group. So many photos were being taken that most of the group had dispersed before I could get my photo LOL

Muchas Gracias INAMU for the invitation!!!

Panama Jammin 7 - A Border Runs Through it

Well that's all folks! 

We have come to the end of our 7 day Panama Jammin Tour!!
Hope you enjoyed the videos!! If you have not seen all of them you can find them all here along with all my other videos. If you subscribe, you will get videos first, as soon as I release them.

This was really a fun and informative experience -- if you are interested in taking the Panama Jammin Tour I will update you here when we are ready to launch.

Now, Let's Talk Borders --

I would like to mention to any of you Costa Rica expats or potential expats -- if you do not have Costa Rica residency you can only remain in Costa Rica for 90 days on your US passport so you will need to make an exit from the country after 90 days.

If you choose to exit to Panama by land, you can use one of 3 borders.

Most travelers use the Costa Rica southern border at Paso Canoas on the Pacific side as we did or the Sixaola border near Puerto Viejo (which I highlight in this video) and the one we used on our return.

The Pacific border is the busiest border in Costa Rica because most of the commercial traffic exits there. At the Pacific border we were sent to a "special" room where our baggage was searched.

The Caribbean border at Sixaola is crowded as well with long lines (this border is mostly used by tourists and lots of young backpackers). At this border you will need to walk across a bridge from Panama to Costa Rica (or vice versa). The good news is--the bridge isn't as scary as it used to be! Both exits were quite an experience (which is one reason I prefer flying)! LOL I am not a big fan of border crossing, however, there is no way around border crossings if you leave the country (resident or not) so it is something you will need to adjust to. I will say that it was made MUCH easier on the Panama Jammin Tour because we had a Spanish speaking tour company/driver which instructed us and helped us with all the paperwork and dealt with the border people for us.That will be a BIG plus for folks taking this tour in the future! It was very hot outside and there were several very long lines at Sixaola and we got to move to the front of the line!

There is one other border, Rio Sereno located in the mountainous range somewhat in the middle of the Pacific & Caribe borders (it is the least trafficked border with no cargo crossings) if your paperwork is in order you can breeze through in less than an hour.  On the Panama side you will find the roads paved from Sererno to David, however coming from San Vito (Costa Rica), the road is a rather rough rocky road…which is probably why this border is still not widely used and quiet. 

My advice for smooth (land) border crossings is -- Be Prepared and Go By Bus (big or smaller as we did) Much less hassle. Just Sayin!!

Big Thanks to everyone for following along!

Check out our departure and border crossing in the video below
and I will see you back here soon for my regular postings!

Panama Jammin 7 - A Border Runs Through It from Devon on Vimeo.

Puerto Viejo - Our Life in Costa Rica

We have folks here visiting from the states, and we just returned from one of my most FAVORITE places

Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica (located on the Caribbean side)

 We hired a driver to take 7 of us on the 4.5 hr journey.  

If you are deciding on where to live (or vacation) in Costa Rica, 

I recommend that everyone go to Puerto Viejo,

 at least once!

I will be posting some more photos of our trip over the next several days

#The Cal Five plus Two

El Día del Negro 2016 - Black in Costa Rica

The history of Costa Rica cannot be told without recognizing the important sociocultural contribution of the Afro-Caribbean community

Our good friends Professor Sherman Thomas & his wife Lucett, son Isaiah and daughter

In 1980, the Union of Educators in Costa Rica realized that a truly multicultural and ethnically diverse society needs to take time to celebrate its roots, and thus El Día del Negro (Afro-Costa Rican Day) was born. The final day of August was chosen in observance of the First Convention of the Universal Negro Improvement Association, which took place at Madison Square Garden in 1920

African heritage in Costa Rica dates back to the colonial period, when Spanish conquistadors brought a few slaves to the country in light of the difficulties they faced in enslaving the indigenous. The first significant arrival of Afro-Caribbeans, however, would take place in 1872 after a ship with nearly a thousand Jamaicans aboard arrived from Kingston. These Jamaican workers built the early railroad network in Costa Rica, and by 1927 there were about 20,000 living in Limon (about 55 percent of the population of the port city). Source

We were unable to attend the celebration this year but are making plans to attend in 2017

Connecting the dots - The African Diaspora and Black Costa Ricans

I read an excellent article on the Q Costa Rica website. If you want to connect the dots regarding the African Diaspora in Costa Rica you will definitely want to read this article.

The Awakening of Black Costa Rica: Beyond the Rhetoric

Most of the Blacks in the nation have English surnames and are bilingual (perfect Spanish and English). Culturally, their Jamaican roots trump any other culture to which they had to adapt. Also, many of the Black entrepreneurs now living in Costa Rica have spent a considerable amount of time living throughout America for educational and career purposes. They now want to bring their skills and talents back home to Costa Rica.

Read the rest of the article

Why you SHOULD visit the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica

When you read about Costa Rica, you’ll read all about the beauty of the country and the vast array of flora and fauna. You'll read all about the mountains, volcanos, the lush valleys and the beautiful Pacific coast. 

Then you’ll be told how peaceful the country is but.... you'll be warned to watch your back when you visit a place called Limon.  As a matter of fact you'll probably be told that it's better (if you value your safety) to skip the entire Caribbean side.

DON'T BELIEVE IT!!!

Limon Costa Rica

Costa Rica has a population of over 4.5 million people 

of which 3% are black 

and almost all of them reside 

on the Caribbean side

The province of Limon is located on the eastern side of Costa Rica on the Caribbean Sea.  This side of the country is not heavily populated but a third of the people live in and around the capital-port city of Puerto Limon, or simply Limon.  I first heard of Puerto Limon when it was a port of call on a cruise we booked.  Limon is where the vast majority of Costa Rica's black people live and it is also Costa Rica's main port handling imports and exports.

Costa Rica (including its Caribbean side) is an ecological wonderland with a rich natural beauty that conservationists are working hard to protect. There are sprawling banana plantations and thick, tropical jungle bordering the lofty Central Mountains.

The Caribbean coast is steeped in history and culture

The Afro-Caribbean people of Costa Rica were never slaves but instead settled on the Caribbean coast as early as 1825.  Most can trace their ancestry back to the 10,000 or so Jamaicans hired by Minor Keith to build the Atlantic Railroad, and to later waves of immigrants who came to work the banana plantations in the late 19th century.

When the project entered the Caribbean lowlands, many workers died from exhaustion and malaria, which prompted Keith to aggressively recruit outside the country, bringing in large numbers of Jamaicans, Chinese, and even Italians to finish the job.  Seeking to minimize fixed costs, Keith planted banana crops along the lines as a cheap source of food for his work force.  After finishing the project, but losing money due to low passenger numbers, Keith placed bananas in the empty cars and shipped them to the United States as a (subsequently successful) business experiment.  Combined with the 800,000 acres of Caribbean land the Costa Rican government gave him and the success of the banana sales, Keith eventually founded and grew the enormously lucrative United Fruit Company.

Racist immigration and residency laws 

restricted black people to the Caribbean coast

Ever since that major development occurred in Limón, an undercurrent of political resentment has been felt between Limonenses and the central government. This is especially true for the Afro-Caribbean population, who, until 1948, had to obtain legal permission to leave Limón province, and were not recognized as citizens.   Roads and electricity were slow to come to most of the province (the latter did not arrive to Cahuita until late 1976), and the traditional disparity of resources – along with racism – created resentment among some of the Limón population. 

A diverse population and sense of community

Due mainly to the surge in tourism starting around the 1970s, Limón is home to a host of foreign expatriates. Among the most common are Americans, Canadians, Nicaraguans, South Americans (mainly Colombian and Ecuadorian), and Europeans (Spanish, Dutch, German, Swiss, and Italian) and indigenous groups (mainly the Bri Bri). 

The Afro-Caribbean influence is evident everywhere, from the lyrical speech and reggae rhythms to the colorful wooden bungalows that line the laid-back, coastal villages. The people mostly speak English and many are bi-lingual.

Why the untrue warnings about crime 

on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica?

The warnings about crime on the Caribbean side were expressed by every person and in every article I read as we were planning our trip to Costa Rica.  At first I believed them, thinking that it was the country's position on safety (they were trying to help keep their tourists safe).  I'm sure that's likely what most people think, so when they visit Costa Rica they hang out in the valley, visit the volcano and the super hyped up Pacific coast (the country's obvious tourism choices).

Tourism=$$
Do the math and follow the money!!

Yes, many of the people on the Caribbean side are poor and yes there is crime (mostly petty crime) but let's put this in perspective.  Do you really want to compare crime?  OK. I'll show you crime. The United States is the most violent nation on the planet.  Our country locks up more of its citizens than any other country.  Do you stay away from Chicago or New York?  I remember the  warnings and the reputation that the city of Oakland had when I lived there.  I moved smack dab in the middle of the downtown.  There were shootings and stabbings and lots of police sirens but I was careful and took precautions. I loved living downtown! 

It's very difficult to put crime in perspective 

when you only have the violent crime in the United States 

to use as a comparison. 

At the urging of my boyfriend, I contacted some people that actually live on the Caribbean side.  That's the way you find out the truth. You go straight to the source. Many of them were American expats who have lived on the Caribbean side for 20 years.  They tell a completely different story.  They tell a story of diversity, culture, beautiful beaches, great music, delicious cuisine, community and a laid back vibe. In other words, an undiscovered treasure! They love living there and most have no desire to return to the U.S.  They admit that there is some crime but there is crime everywhere. The crime in Limon is no more prevalent than the crime in any other big city including the capital city of Costa Rica -- San Jose. 

Now I get it.  This same kind of thing happened when I was going to Africa. Lots of scary warnings from the U.S. Embassy about crime and warnings not to visit. When I got there, nothing was going on. I didn't feel unsafe at all. 

The OTHER Costa Rica

Life isn't fair.  There are lots of things I already LOVE about Costa Rica but unfortunately we are still living in a world where race continues to be a big issue -- and sadly, Costa Rica does not even include the history of its own Afro-Caribbean people in the history it teaches. 

It's 2014 and whether it be Africa, the U.S, Costa Rica or a million other countries across the globe, black folks just can't seem to catch a break!  

White people will have to make their own decision about whether they venture to the "forbidden dark side" but I hope black people will not miss this opportunity to experience the other Costa Rica.  At this time we are considering making our home on the South Caribbean coast. Everything about this part of Costa Rica seems different: different culture, different history, different climate, and different activities.

BTW - Every second week of October, Puerto Limón hosts a festival called carnaval. The event's start is credited to local community leader and activist, Alfred Josiah Henry Smith (known as "Mister King"), who helped organize the first carnaval in October 1949.  

Hope to see you there!